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The Cinque Terre are criss-crossed by an extensive network of trails connecting the fishing villages with other inland villages and towns nearby, such as Portovenere.
Here, you can enjoy fantastic excursions, surrounded by wild nature and breathtaking views of cliffs overlooking the sea, besides the numerous species of endemic plants.
The Cinque Terre trails can be basically divided into “marine trails”, running close to the sea, “hillside trails” and, finally, “ridge trails”.
You can find a surprising variety of trails and mule tracks in this area:
- The BLUE trail runs along the coastline and connects all the 5 villages.
- Hillside trails connect transversely and vertically the five fishing villages with the legs descending from the Red trail.
- RED trail No. 1 consists of a real Ridge Way connecting Portovenere to Levanto and running above the hills overlooking the Cinque Terre.
- It is a pleasant route, named the “Route of Sanctuaries”, as it links all sanctuaries standing over the 5 villages of the Cinque Terre, a fascinating itinerary to discover the trails used by pilgrims crossing these areas.
- So-called “ring” trails can be used to visit a number of places.
The Blue trail
It unwinds following the coastline, starting from Riomaggiore with the famous “Via dell’Amore” (Love trail), a beautiful and easy walk connecting Riomaggiore to Manarola and offering enchanting views over the Gulf; it then continues through all the other villages, crossing terraces with dry stone walls, ancient stone stairways and alleys amidst a Mediterranean vegetation characterized by an array of colours and fragrances, etc….
The Red trail
This is trail No. 1, running on the ridge and connecting Portovenere to Levanto. It is a trail full of unforgettable wide views, from the Tuscan Archipelago (including the islands of Elba, Gorgona, Capraia), Corsica up to the Ligurian coast limits. This is quite a long walk but you can break it down in different stretches; in fact, at the top of the villages of the Cinque Terre, you can always find some trails descending to the sea, where you can continue by boat or take one of the frequent trains (the La Spezia- Genoa railway looks almost like an open-air surface metro) and come back to the starting point or continue your visit to other villages of the Cinque Terre.
This trail starts from the centre of Portovenere in Piazza Bastreri, along the walls, at the beginning of Via Cappellini; it kicks off with steep stairs and then runs along the castle walls. Here, the trail shows all its scenic splendour, opening to fantastic views over the horizon and surrounding cliffs; the latter form “gaps” perched over the sea, with precipices up to 350 metres deep.
Once you reach a cave where they typical Portoro marble is extracted, the trail departs from the ridge and continues to the right with various ups and downs.
Then it becomes flat, near the “Muzerone” Fort.
The trail continues uphill along the hillside of “Le Rosse” or “Costa Rossa” and the first stretch is literally carved in the rock, crossing a dense forested area with a gentle slope. Soon after, after a pine forest, you can see Campiglia, a fine medieval hamlet with beautiful panoramic views (from Campiglia then, a number of trails depart to explore the surrounding areas).
From Campiglia, the trail climbs up along the ridge, following the coastline.
Once you reach the pass of St. Anthony, you can continue and arrive at Il Telegrafo (516 m), where you walk on the paved road uphill from Biassa; the trail then crosses a hillside path on the same turn, the so-called “Route of Sanctuaries”.
At the pass of St. Anthony, you need to take the road to “Schiara” and, after about half a kilometre, you arrive at “La Croce”, an open area surrounded by pine trees. Here, you can see a large boulder carved in the shape of a pyramid with an iron cross at the top.
Continue along the trail until you reach a crossroad called “Bramapane”; here, you need to keep a north/west direction along the coastline and walk on a flat path along the ridge of the mountains.
On the way, several steep trails descend to the villages of the Cinque Terre.
From here, you can decide to continue to Levanto or opt for a downhill trail leading to your village of choice; finally, once you have finished exploring the village, you can continue along the trail following the coastline or catch a train back to the starting point or to another village of the Cinque Terre.
If you decide to continue along trail No. 1 , in the proximity of Vernazza the trail departs from the coast and descends to the so-called “Foce di Drignana”, where it becomes flat again all the way to “Termine”, where it meets the provincial road coming from the village of Pignone.
From here onwards, the trail becomes a paved road and, once you reach Mt. Soviore, you can visit the Sanctuary bearing its name. From the Sanctuary of Soviore, you can walk downhill towards the sea and reach Monterosso, the last village of the Cinque Terre.
The Route of Sanctuaries
A Sanctuary is built above each village of the Cinque Terre, in dominant position; locals are very pious and regularly pay a visit to their sanctuaries, evidence of the strong and ancient religious roots of this area.
The Route of Sanctuaries is a wonderful and fascinating trail, still largely unknown, to discover the ancient paths linking all places of worship in this beautiful spec of land.
The Route of Sanctuaries is an easy and spectacular walk, offering breathtaking views; you can decide to cover it on foot, horseback or mountain bike.
Trails are marked by white-red signposts.
The trail unwinds on the ridge of the mountains surrounding the five villages of the 5 Terre.
What written about the Red trail is valid also for the Route of Sanctuaries: as you will meet several transversal legs along the way (e.g. 3a, 6d, 7, 7b, 8, 9), you can always decide to split up your itinerary in different stretches and customize it according to your needs, by visiting your places of choice between these Sanctuaries above the sea.
The first Sanctuary on the trail is above the village of Riomaggiore: Our Lady of Montenero.
You can reach it from different points (it depends on where you are):
- One of these start right beyond La Spezia, climbs uphill to the village of Biassa and then continues to the hill of "Il Telegrafo".
- Another starting point is Riomaggiore (the first village of the Cinque Terre), near the parking lot. The trail has a total length of around 3,5 km and can be completed in about one hour. It runs parallel to the stream “Rio Maior” for quite a bit, then it climbs uphill amidst terraces covered by vineyards, up to the Sanctuary.
- An alternative route, always from the village of Riomaggiore, allows reaching the Sanctuary from the provincial road above the village, called “La Litoranea" by the locals, and leading uphill through terraces covered by vineyards, for about 20 minutes.
- The sanctuary can be reached also by a toy train on a monorail, which is used for the work in the vineyards; you can take it from the road to Riomaggiore, just a hundred metres from the Lìmen tunnel.
The Sanctuary is very nice and offers an opportunity to admire many votive objects donated by worshippers over the centuries; a small square in front offers fantastic views over the sea.
The Sanctuary of Our Lady of Montenero was built in 1335 and is dedicated to the Holy Virgin, whose painting, according to the tradition, was brought from the Far East and made by the Evangelist St. Luke. It was concealed from the residents in order to avoid theft during the domination of the Lombards.
This painting is brought in procession on Whit Monday and on August 14 every year, when it arrives at the village of Riomaggiore after a picturesque night procession.
From the Sanctuary of Our Lady of Montenero, you can take the trail to Volastra, to visit the second Sanctuary, located in Manarola: Our Lady of Well-being.
Alternatively, if you start your visit from the village of Manarola, you must follow trail No. 6d, which departs from the parking lot, where the mule track begins, and leads to the start of trail No. 6d. Once you reach the start of trail No. 6d, keep walking uphill along a stream towards Volastra.
The Sanctuary of Our Lady of Well-being is characterized by a Romanesque design, dates back to the tenth century and has a 3-nave layout. Particularly significant is the entrance gate on the facade, where you can admire a pointed arch of the fourteenth century.
Here, you can also admire the door and the mullioned window.
The coast of Volastra is lined by amazing terraces covered by vineyards built by men, a unique landscape in the world.
From the Sanctuary of Our Lady of Well-being, you can take trail No. 6d, which proceeds on a light slope. After about 2 km, you reach “Case Pianca”, then take trail No. 7 downhill to the woods until you reach the terraces right above the village of Corniglia; here, leave trail No.7 for trail No. 2 connecting Corniglia to Vernazza. At the hamlet of “Prevo”, a handful of dwellings, you need to keep a right and start trail No. 7b up to a paved road. Continue walking along this road and after around 300m you will see a steep trail heading to the village of San Bernardino, where the third Sanctuary is located; this is Corniglia’s Sanctuary of Nostra Signora delle Grazie.
From the Sanctuary you can enjoy fantastic views over the coast of the Cinque Terre and endless sights on the horizon.
The Sanctuary dates back to the early seventeenth century and underwent restoration and extension work in the eighteenth century, with the construction of the chapel, which was subsequently demolished and then built again in the early 900’s.
The painting representing the Holy Virgin is preserved inside the church and is profoundly worshipped by locals, given a number of alleged miracles related to its restoration.
From the Sanctuary of Nostra Signora delle Grazie, take trail No. 8a heading to the hill of Reggio, where the fourth Sanctuary is located; this is Vernazza’s Sanctuary of the Holy Virgin of Reggio.
The Sanctuary is pleasantly shaded by old trees, which surround it and create an almost mystic atmosphere.
The Sanctuary is equally beloved by residents of Vernazza and Pignone, an inland village.
It is worth observing that the Holy Virgin preserved inside the church here is a black one, in fact it is referred by worshippers as the African Holy Virgin.
The Sanctuary features a cross-shaped layout and was built in the fourteenth century. In the escarpment bordering the square of the church, you can admire a fine tomb with a stone shield above it, bearing a representation of the Cross of the Order of the Knights of Malta.
Celebrations and pilgrimages in honour of the Holy Virgin are held on the first Sunday of August.
From the Sanctuary of the Holy Virgin of Reggio, you can take trail No. 8b to Soviore, walking through the woods, where Monterosso’s Sanctuary is located: this is the Sanctuary of Soviore, built 477 metres above sea level, one of the oldest sanctuaries in Liguria.
Alternatively, you can reach it from the village of Monterosso; here, you must take trail No.9, which stretches for about 2,7 km; it can be covered in approximately one hour and 45 minutes.
Trail No. 9 departs from Monterosso, at the end of Via Roma, and climbs uphill through vineyards and olive groves to the former hamlet of “Albereto”; right before the intersection with the coastal road, you can see an iron cross and then a staircase made of stone. Walk past a fountain and you will meet a small chapel, built where the statue of the Holy Virgin was dug out. After about 150m, you will finally reach the Sanctuary of Soviore.
The Sanctuary is built on a a small plateau sloping down towards the village of Monterosso, from where you can enjoy enchanting views of the surrounding coast, extending to the Tuscan Archipelago, including the Island of Elba, Capraia, Gorgona and also Corsica.
The red-coloured Church features a single nave and 4 lateral chapels.
According to the legend, the Sanctuary was created right after the fall of Albereto, where originally the residents used to live. Albereto was destroyed by the Lombards in the early seventeenth century. Locals escaped to the sea and hid the image of the beloved Holy Virgin underground. Afterwards, a white dove showed up and pointed out to a priest a plot of land from where a strange small came. So, the residents removed a large boulder and started to dig; eventually, they found a statue representing the Holy Virgin.
A chapel was therefore erected on the very same place, followed, later on, by the Marian Sanctuary.
According to an historical anecdote, Emperor Otto III made a detour to this Sanctuary while on his way to Rome in 996, and stopped there to pray.
The pleasant square facing the church is the venue of a number of classic concerts every year.
The celebrations of the Holy Virgin of Soviore are held on August 15.
The main festival of the Holy Virgin goes on on the same day.
After the visit to Soviore, it is recommended that you walk downhill to Monterosso and visit the church and the Capuchin convent, where you can admire a “Crucifixion” by Van Dyck and a "San Gerolamo" attributed to Luca Cambiaso.